Any of the designs shown in this book may be developed in both the coarse, medium, or fine crochet thread according to their uses.

FILET CROCHET

To copy a filet pattern perfectly, the worker must make the meshes absolutely square, and experience alone will do this. When throwing the thread over to make the mesh, if held too loosely, or if not drawn down perfectly, it will make the mesh longer and if the thread is drawn too tightly it will make the mesh wider, but practice will soon perfect the square. The thread should be drawn up exactly the length of the chain of 2, and they will make a perfect square of the mesh.

There is one rule for starting filet. One need not be at a loss how many chs are needed. Count the number of meshes, multiply by 3, and add 3 for the first side if the last mesh is a block, or five if the first mesh is a space. A mesh is one square. If it is a space, it is an open mesh. If it is a closed mesh, that is, 4 trs, it is a block. If this is once understood, it is not necessary to say ch 5, turn, or ch 3, 2 more trs. Every time you turn, you chain either 3 or 5, when you are making filet.

NEW METHOD OF ADDING MESHES AT LAST END OF ROW

All workers know it to be a simple process to increase the length of a row by adding meshes at the first end simply by making a chain on the end of preceding row and making the extra blocks or spaces on that chain, but it has been claimed the only way to add meshes at the end of a row already made was to make the trebles run cross-wise of the work, which is never very satisfactory, as it will look different from the re­mainder of the row. By using the following method it will all be the same. When making a row on which meshes are to be added at last end of row, instead of making the last treble of the block already there, ch 2, and fasten with a slip stitch to the same loop that ordinarily you would put the last treble in; that will bring your thread even with the lower edge of row, then make a chain long enough to work the extra meshes on. If 1 mesh is required it will want ch of 6; if 2 meshes, ch 9; if 3 meshes, ch 12, adding three stitches for each mesh after the 1st one; turn and make either sp or bl along chain, just which is desired, then fasten with slip stitch to top of last mesh made before the chain was added; turn, slip stitch to end of added meshes, then you will be ready to start another row.

TO GIVE LASTING QUALITY BY STIFFENING

To starch heavily, proceed as follows: First, have a wooden board cut, about 20 x 35 in., or an inch larger all around than the measurements of piece to be laundered (if there is danger of warping, nail strips on either end to hold true). Draw with a pencil, a rectangle 18 x 30 in. and nail on these lines, about an inch apart, 1½ in. brass headless nails (others will rust). After washing well, starch the runner in a very thick starch, almost as thick as mush, and then stretch on the nails, and let dry. When this is done, draw a rectangle 12 x 18 in. and place the nails in as directed and starch and stretch like the runner. More than one mat may be dried at a time if wished.

Crochet Patterns: 

Square Medallion	Round Medallion	Round Ten-Point Star Medallion	Large Round Medallion	Round Medallion	Lacy Medallion	Square Medallion
Five-Sided Wheel Medallion	Medallion	Square Medallion	Triangular Medallion	Oblong Center Medallion	Flower Edge #1	Diamond Edge #2
Edge #3	Edge #4	Edge #5	Insertion or Medallion #6	Insertion #7	Edge #8	Picot Edge #9
Clones Knot Edge #10	Wheel and Bell Edge #11	Fan Edge #12	Rosette Edge #13	Triple Shell Edge #14	Flower and Leaf Edge #15	Edge #16
Round Medallion	Oblong Medallion with Leaves	Reticella Medallion	Medallion	Square Medallion	Medallion	Medallion
Medallion	Round Lacy Doily	Medallion and Edge for Tea Cloth	Foreign Medallion	Church Laces Edgings and Insertions	Church Laces Medallions in Filet	Edgings with Matching Insertions