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adaptable to any headsize

MATERIALS:
Choose one of the following threads in size 30:
Clark's O.N.T. Mercerized Crochet, 6 balls of White or Ecru, or 8 balls of any color.
J. & P. Coats Mercerized Crochet, 4 balls of White or Ecru, or 6 balls of any color.
J. & P. Coats Big Ball Best Six Cord Mercerized Crochet, 2 balls of White or Ecru, or 3 balls of any color.
Milward's steel crochet hook No. 9.
2 yds. millinery wire.
1 yd. grosgrain ribbon.
A feather.

Gauge: 10 s c make 1 inch; 9 rnds make 1 inch.

Thread is used double throughout. Starting at tip of crown, ch 2 and make 8 s c in 2nd ch from hook. 2nd rnd: 2 s c in each s c around (1 s c increased in each s c). 3rd rnd: S c in each s c around. Hereafter repeat the last rnd, increasing where necessary to keep work flat, until piece measures 5 inches in diameter, for 22-inch headsize. If a larger headsize is desired, work a few more rnds. Now work without increasing for 3 rnds. Drop thread; mark this place with a colored thread as center back. Measure off 1 inch on both sides of colored thread, and mark both places with a pin. Attach a double thread to pin-mark, and make s c in each s c around to pin-mark at opposite side. Fasten and break off. Pick up thread at center back, and work s c in each s c around, increasing 8 s c at equal distances apart. Drop thread. Attach a double thread 1½ inches away from center back, and work to corresponding position at opposite side. Fasten and break off. Pick up thread at center back and work another complete rnd as before. Continue in this manner, alternating a short row and a complete rnd, always starting and ending the short row ½ inch further away from center back than previous short row, until 8 short rows in all are made, and piece measures 21½ inches in circumference. Then work in rnds as before until center back measures 3 inches. Do not break off, but work brim as follows:

Brim … 1st rnd: S c in each s c around, increasing 12 s c at equal distances apart. 2nd rnd: S c in each s c around. 3rd to 8th rnds incl: Repeat 1st and 2nd rnds alternately. 9th to 20th rnds incl: S c in each s c around. Turn at end of 20th rnd. 21st rnd: Holding wire along edge of previous rnd, and working over it in order to conceal it, make s c in each s c around, joining ends of wire before it is completely covered. 22nd rnd: S c in each s c around, inserting hook at base of each s c of previous rnd. Fasten and break off. Cut a piece of wire about 16 inches long. Join ends, and pull into shape of an oval, 5¼ x 4 inches across center. Turn hat wrong side out. Place wire on top of crown, 3 inches up from 1st rnd of brim, and baste in place. Turn hat right side out. With double thread, work a rnd of s c, working over wire. Fasten and break off.

Finishing … Steam hat thoroughly, shaping in the hands by pulling crown down from upper wire until all fullness of crown disappears and the sides of crown are straight. If necessary, pad the left hand with a Turkish towel and insert into crown; cover outside with damp cloth, and press. Press brim through damp cloth. Put hat on head, and shape brim as in illustration. Remove hat very carefully, and put on a hat stand until thoroughly dry, being sure hat does not rest on brim and that crown retains straight-sided effect, higher in front than in back. When dry, sew ribbon around crown, and fasten feather and tailored bow to right side.