Empire Collar Pattern #2030

Materials:
Clark's O.N.T. Knit-Crochet, 2 balls.
Milward's steel crochet hook No. 2.

The Stitch: Draw a loop through the 1st st, skip 1 st, draw a loop through next st, thread over hook and draw through all 3 loops at once. Ch 1, to lock st. On next row, draw a loop through at the right side of the st below, then a loop through at the left side of the st, thread over and draw through all 3 loops at once. Ch 1, to lock st. This will be referred to as "d st" (double stitch) in the following directions.

Ch 139, turn. 1st row: Make 1 d st in 3rd ch from hook, and make a row of d sts into foundation ch. Finish all rows with 1 s c in same place that last loop was drawn through. Ch 2, turn. 2nd row: Work across with d sts. Ch 2, turn.

3rd row: Make 38 d sts, which brings work to middle of row. Then s c in same place as last loop and turn. Work across this half of collar until it is 8 rows deep. On the 9th row, increase at 3rd st from front edge. (To increase, draw the 2nd loop of st through the middle of the st below, then ch 1, to lock st. Begin next st in this same place, thus increasing 1 st.) On the 10th row, work only 15 sts from the front edge, then turn, without making ch 2 and work back, to make collar deeper at front. When collar is 15 rows deep, finish off and make other side to correspond.

Jabot: Attach thread at 10th st from center of collar. Ch 1, work across center, making 1 s c in each of 40 s c's of foundation ch. 2nd row: Sl st back 4 s c, ch 3, d c in front loop of next s c, d c in each of next s c's to within last 4 s c's of previous row. Ch 2, turn. 3rd row: Work a row of d sts and finish with 1 s c. Ch 2, turn. Repeat 3rd row twice. Then increase at the 3rd st from each end every other row until work is 12 rows deep. Then work 7 rows without increasing.

20th row: S c in front loops of each d st and ch below. This row should be on the right side of the jabot. At the end of the row, ch 2 and work 1 row of d sts in the back thread of the same row (the 19th). Work 2 more rows of d sts. 23rd row: Same as 20th. Continuing in last row of d sts, work 3 more rows of d sts and break off. 27th row: Attach thread at beginning of 5th st of last row, ch 2, work across to 4th st from end, s c, and turn. Work 4 more short rows. 32nd row: Increase 1 st in 2nd, 6th, 11th and 15th sts. Work 2 rows as before. 35th row: Work a row of d sts. 36th row: Same as 20th. 37th and 38th rows: D sts. 39th row: Same as 20th. 40th row: Increase in 2nd st from each end. 41st and 42nd rows: D sts. 43rd row: Break thread and attach it at beginning of 4th st, ch 2 and work across to 3rd st from other end. 44th to 47th rows: D sts. 48th row: Increase in 3rd st from each end. 49th row: D sts. Repeat 48th and 49th rows alternately twice, then make 1 row of d sts. Finish off.

Attach thread to end of foundation ch of collar and work s c into each ch. At the center, make s c's into front loops of 1st row of s c on jabot, then into each of remaining ch's. At the end, ch 3, turn and work a row of d c into back loops of s c's. Finish off. Turn down d c row and make hem. Finish with loop and button.