Collar and Cuffs Militaire Pattern #2120

Materials: J. & P. Coats Knit-Cro-Sheen, Ecru (3 balls) and color 55A Dk. Navy (2 balls) or Clark's O.N.T. Cronita, 3 balls of Ecru and 2 balls of Dk. Navy. Milward's steel crochet hook No. 7. 15 button moulds about ¾-inch in diameter.

The entire collar and cuffs are made in s c, picking up only the back loop of s c of previous row, to form ridge. In working collar, at end of each row throughout, ch 2, turn and at beginning of next row, make a s c in 2nd ch from hook (thus increasing 1 s c at beginning of each row to give slant).

Collar. Beginning at neck, with Ecru, ch 201, turn. 1st row: S c in 2nd ch from hook and s c in each ch across. Ch 2, turn. 2nd to 5th rows incl: S c in 2nd ch from hook, s c in each s c across, ch 2, turn. 6th row: Work 46 s c, increase 1 s c in next s c (to increase make 2 s c in 1 s c), * work 20 s c, increase in next, repeat from * 5 more times, work remaining s c. 7th row: 4 s c, ch 9, skip next 8 s c, 1 s c in next s c, this forms 1st buttonhole. S c in each s c across. 8th row: S c in each s c and 1 s c in each st of ch-9. No increases. 9th row: 41 s c, increase in next s c, then increase in every 25th s c. 10th and 11th rows: S c in each s c. No increases. 12th row: Increase in every 20th s c. 13th and 14th rows: S c in each s c. No increases. 15th row: 4 s c, make 2nd button hole (like 1st), s c in each s c across. (All buttonholes should come on same side of collar.) 16th row: 28 s c, increase in next s c, then increase in every 14th s c, to within 28 s c from end. S c in each of 28 s c. 17th and 18th rows: S c in each s c. No increase. 19th row: 30 s c, increase in next, then increase in the 11th s c for 20 times. S c in each of remaining s c. 20th, 21st and 22nd rows: S c in each s c across. 23rd row: Make 3rd buttonhole, and work s c across. 24th row: S c in each s c. No increases. 25th row: 41 s c, increase in next s c, then increase in every 12th s c for 20 times. S c in each of remaining s c. 26th to 30th rows incl: S c in each s c. No increases. 31 st row: Make 4th buttonhole. S c across. 32nd row: 28 s c, increase in next s c, then increase in every 12th s c for 20 times. S c in each of remaining s c. 33rd, 34th and 35th rows: S c in each s c. No increases. 36th row: Increase in every 11th s c. 37th and 38th rows: S c in each s c across. 39th row: Make 5th buttonhole. S c across. 40th row: S c in each st across. Do not break but work a row of sl sts along edge of collar on buttonhole side, making 1 sl st to each row. Break off.

Border: Border is worked in 2 rows of Blue and 2 rows of Ecru alternately. Ch 2, turn at end of each row, and skip the 1st s c at beginning of each row. 1st row: Attach Blue to end st at neck edge on buttonhole side (the opposite edge is for buttons) and work s c in each st along buttonhole edge and across lower edge to next corner (do not work along button edge). Ch 1, turn.

2nd to 26th rows incl: Work s c in each s c, making increases as necessary to keep work flat and circular. Increase more often at the corner on buttonhole side to make curve lie flat as in illustration. (7 Blue ridges and 6 Ecru ridges.)

Left Cuff. With Ecru, ch 86, turn, and work 40 rows of s c as in collar, increasing 1 s c only at beginning of odd rows (the slant for buttonhole side) and working evenly at beginning of even rows. Besides these, make no other increases. Make the buttonholes on the 7th, 15th, 23rd, etc. rows, same as collar. Border. Consists of 7 ridges (4 Blue and 3 Ecru) worked as in collar.

Right Cuff. Work as for left cuff, reversing directions for increases and buttonholes—thus increase at beginnings of even rows and work evenly on odd rows.

Buttons. (15) With Blue, make a loop over which work 8 s c, work around s c picking up back of st only, increasing enough to keep button flat and until large enough to cover the surface of button mould. Then d c 1 row all around. Place button inside and sew up securely. Wear collar as in illustration, marking places for buttons to correspond with buttonholes. Then with a sewing needle and thread sew buttons on.