Materials: J. & P. Coats Knit-Cro-Sheen, color 9 Yellow, 9 balls for skirt and 6 balls for jacket. Milward's steel crochet hook No. 2 and No. 4. 11 buttons, ¾ inches across.
Gauge: 5 meshes equal 1 inch; 5 rows equal 1 inch.
Use No. 2 crochet hook for the body of the skirt and jacket and No. 4 for the belt and the bands of d c on the jacket, sleeves and bottom of the skirt. Jacket: Worked up and down. Back: Beginning at underarm, ch 6. 1st row: S c in 2nd ch from hook. * Ch 1, skip ch-1, and s c in next ch. Repeat from * once. Ch 3, turn. 2nd row: S c in 2nd ch from hook, * ch 1, s c in back loop of s c in row below, and repeat from * across. Ch 5, turn. 3rd row: S c in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1, skip ch-1, s c in next ch. * Ch 1, s c in back loop of next s c, and repeat from * across.
Alternate 2nd and 3rd rows until there are 14 rows, then add ch 60 at the end of next row to bring work to bottom of jacket. Work as before and at end of row ch 45 (or more if necessary) to bring work to top of shoulder. Keep work straight at lower edge, but at shoulder increase 1 mesh every 4th row by making s c, ch 1, s c in last st. Continue until shoulder is 34 rows (17 ridges) deep. Then decrease 1 mesh every 2nd row for back of neck for 2 times.
Keep upper and lower edges straight for 54 rows (27 ridges), then increase 1 mesh every other row until 2 meshes have been added. This finishes the neck. Still working straight at the bottom, decrease 1 mesh by skipping the 1st s c at beginning of every 4th row for length of shoulder (17 ridges). At beginning of next row, sl st back as many sts as were added on opposite side to form armhole. (45 sts or more). Continue as before to bottom edge, then on next row, sl st back 60 sts. Then decrease 1 mesh at top and 2 meshes at bottom every other row for 14 rows. Finish off. Lay the back flat and sl st along lower edge and at neck to keep work from stretching when the banding of d c is put on.
Front: Ch 164. 1st row: S c in 2nd ch from hook. * Ch 1, skip ch-1, s c in next ch and repeat from * along foundation ch. Ch 1, turn. 2nd row: S c in back loop of 1st s c. * Ch 1, s c in back loop of next s c and repeat from * across. Ch 1, turn. Repeat 2nd row, working straight at the top and bottom for 43 rows. (21 ridges). Then increase 1 mesh at the top on the 44th, 52nd and 56th rows, which brings work to top of the shoulder at the neck. Still working straight at the bottom, decrease 1 mesh every 4th row, until shoulder is 24 rows deep. Ch 1, turn. 81st row: Work down 21 meshes. Ch 1, turn. 82nd row: Skip 1st s c and begin in 2nd s c and work back. Ch 1, turn. 83rd row: Work down to 4th mesh from end. Ch 1, turn. 84th row: Skip 1st 2 meshes and begin in 3rd mesh and work back. Ch 1, turn. Repeat 83rd and 84th rows alternately 2½ times, making 9 short rows in all. Then break thread.
Attach thread at the 81st row, 1 mesh beyond the short row and work down to the bottom. This lower underarm section is worked for 11 rows. At the top, skip the 1st 2 meshes every other row for the 11 rows. At the bottom, make the 1st 4 rows straight, then on the 5th row, work down only 26 meshes. Ch 1, turn, skip the 1st 2 meshes on each of the rows beginning at the bottom; and on the alternate rows, work only to the 4th mesh from the end. Finish off. Lay the piece flat and make a row of sl sts along the top and lower edge to avoid stretching. Repeat for other side of front.
Sew the back and front pieces together at the underarm and shoulder. Then beginning at lower edge of one of the underarm seams, work around the edge with a close row of d c. At the top and bottom of both front edges make 5 d c in the corner sts on each row. At the shoulder seams, make a decreasing st on each row. (That is, start a d c and work until you have 2 loops on the hook. Then work the next d c, work until there are 3 loops on the hook and draw through these at the same time). On the 2nd row of d c, work in the back loops of the sts in the 1st row all around the jacket except the portions that form the revers. For these, measure down 7 inches on each side of the front. Then from these points to the shoulder seams work in the front loops of the sts below. After the 2nd row has been finished, make allowance for the buttonholes. Attach an extra piece of thread to the 40th st from the bottom and work a sl st into each of the next 2 sts. * Ch 8, skip 8 d c, sl st into each of next 7 d c and repeat from * until 5 buttonholes have been allowed for. Then break off. Make other edge to correspond. On the 3rd row of d c, make d c's into each st of the ch-8's. Finish edge of the jacket with a 4th row of d c.
Sleeves: Beginning at underarm ch 26. 1st row: S c in 2nd ch from hook. * Ch 1, skip ch-1, s c in next ch and repeat from * along foundation ch. Ch 1, turn. 2nd row: S c in back loop of 1st s c in row below. * Ch 1, s c in back loop of next s c and repeat from * across. Repeat 2nd row, working straight at both edges until 10 rows have been made. Then increase 1 mesh (by putting s c, ch 1, s c in the end st) every 2nd row at one edge, working straight at the other edge. Continue until work measures 3½ inches at the straight edge (bottom) without stretching. Continue to increase every 2nd row at the top, but work down only to the 10th mesh from the bottom, to allow for the opening, then work straight on this line. After the opening is 8 rows wide, work straight at the top and bottom for 8 rows, then begin decreasing 1 mesh every 2nd row at the top and work for 8 rows. Then add ch 21 to complete sleeve opening. Work straight at the bottom, decreasing 1 mesh every 2nd row at the top until there are 13 s c in the row. Then work straight at both ends for 10 rows.
Sew up the seam and work around the bottom edge with a row of sl st to avoid stretching. Make a close row of d c around the bottom, making 5 d c in the corner st at the bottom of the opening. Work up to the top of the opening with the d c, then work across the opening with s c to the 3rd sl st from the corner. From there begin the d c at the other side of the opening. Repeating these short rows of s c at the top of the opening brings the last row of d c almost together. To make the banding match that on the jacket, work 3 more rows of d c into the back loops of the sts in the row below. Repeat for other sleeve. Sew into the armholes of the jacket, easing in as necessary. Make links of ch st for buttons and put in buttonholes as shown in illustration.
Skirt: The skirt is made in 2 pieces with seams at the sides, and is worked up and down. Ch 186. 1st row: S c in 2nd ch from hook. * Ch 1, skip ch-1, s c in next ch. Repeat from * along foundation ch. Ch 1, turn. 2nd row: S c in back loop of 1st s c of row below. * Ch 1, s c in back loop of next s c, and repeat from * across. Ch 9, turn. 3rd row: S c in 2nd ch from hook. * Ch 1, skip ch-1, s c in next ch, and repeat from * twice. ** Ch 1, s c in back loop of next st and repeat from ** across.
Alternate 2nd and 3rd rows until work measures 1½ inches more than the finished skirt is to be. This extra amount is allowed for what is taken up in the "stretchiness" that develops as the work proceeds. Continue front, keeping upper and lower edges straight until the piece, when laid perfectly fiat with no stretching, measures half of the hip measure (taken 4 inches down from the top). Then decrease in the same way that the increases were made at other edge. That is, sl st back 4 meshes (4 s c and ch 4) for each of the ch-9 groups. Break off and make another piece the same.
When both pieces have been finished, sew them together, leaving 7 inches open at the top of one of the seams for the placket. Attach thread to lower edge of skirt and work a row of d c (being careful not to draw work in). Join with sl st, ch 3, and work a row of d c, working in back loop only, to get ridged effect. Make 8 more rows and fasten off. Attach thread to the bottom of the front edge of the placket and work a close row of s c up to the top. Then attach thread to the top of the back edge and work down with a close row of d c. Ch 3, turn, and work back with another row of d c. Draw in the top of the skirt until it equals the waist measure and make a row of sl sts to keep it firm. Then into these sl sts, make a row of d c.
To make the belt match the band at the bottom of the skirt, begin each of the 6 rows of d c at the same end of the belt, and work in the back loops of the sts in the row below. Finish the belt with a row of sl sts.
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