Following are helpful tips from vintage Needlecraft Magazines...
Put on hooks and eyes with buttonhole stitch; they will not come off, and the work is neater.
When wanting a tiny pin - tuck for baby's clothes, use No. 8 spool thread on the bobbin and No. 80 on top of the machine. Stitch on the wrong side of garment.
If the finished Hardanger scallops are machine-stitched very close to the buttonhole purl on the edge they will not pull or fray out when laundered, and if they stitching is carefully done it is scarcely noticeable.
When fagoting lace and insertion try basting one strip on a piece of paper that will hold it firm and yet bend easily, then pin the other strip at each end and once between, if only about a yard in length. It is far easier to do this than to baste both, and result is equally good.
I find that if fine woolen underwear is darned with yarn, however fine and soft, it will shrink, and the result will be a hole larger than at first. Instead, use a knitting silk, loosely twisted, darn loosely, and when the garment is washed the darn will be of nearly the same texture as the goods.
I wish every needlecrafter would try my way of threading a machine needle. Do not look for the eye, but sit right in front, put the thread above the eye in the groove, slant downward, and when the thread hits the eye it will go through. It can be threaded this way at arm's length if you can see the needle.
When buying embroideries one often sees a pattern she likes very much, but hesitates to purchase because the edge is not very strong. It can be strengthened and made durable by crocheting over the tight stitch, using fine thread and hook. I hope this will benefit others as it has me.
I have used some embroidered stock collars, now out of style, in making some very bretty bonnets for babies. Gather a large circle of lawn or other fine material for the back, letting the ribbon come across the back of the neck to the front and form rosettes and ties; use the collar for the straight piece across the front.
When making napkins, handkerchiefs or doilies, round or square, I always shrink the linen before cutting; if I do not, my finished work is not perfect in shape after it is laundered. I once had a beautiful piece of coronation braid work spoiled because the braid was not shrunk before putting it on.
When making tatting combining rings and chains, I have learned to obviate the wrong side out appearance by always beginning the chain with the last part of the double stitch, ending, of course, with the first part, making the picot with the ast part of the double stitch or knot. The work looks very much better made in this way.
Ten cents' worth of white velveteen will make several powder pads and any friend who finds it necessary to use a touch of face powder in hot weather will appreciate this simple gift. Cut the desired size, hem and finish with a crocheted edge, or sew narrow lace around. These are much better than the chamois pads.
Let those who usually spend much time embroidering piano - scarfs, pillowcases, towels and similar articles, do the padding of the scallops by simply basting on a white corset-lacing and working over it. This kind of padding launders better than that made of thread, and it takes very little time to do it.
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