CHECK YOUR GAUGE FIRST:
Before starting your garment, knit or crochet a small sample. If you cannot procure the exact gauge given in the instructions, try a needle one or even two sizes smaller or larger until you obtain the exact gauge specified for the garment you intend to make. The needles and hooks recommended in the instructions are based on nearly as possible on the average knitters work. We suggest you test your own work first to verify the gauge.
If you find that you have to use a different size needle or hook than that called for in the instructions, the change will not in any way alter your garment, provided your gauge is in accordance with that called for in the instructions.
TO BLOCK OR STEAM YARN GARMENTS:
Turn garment wrong side out. Lay flat on a pressing board. Pin edges of garment if necessary to make it lie flat. Lay a wet cloth over garment. Pass a hot iron over the cloth allowing the steam to go through the garment. Do not allow the weigh of the iron to rest on the garment. Leave garment pinned until thoroughly dry.
TO WASH KNITTED GARMENTS:
Take complete measurements, then, using soap flakes, make think suds with hot water; then add enough cold water to make it lukewarm (comfortable wrist temperature). Avoid using hot water. Immerse garment and gently work suds through the fabric - do not rub or twist or allow the weight of the garment to pull it out of shape. Keep the garment supported in the hands when squeezing out water.
Rinse thoroughly in three lukewarm waters immediately after washing, squeezing garment gently between the hands to remove soap. Do not twist or wring. Roll garment between two turkish towels to knead out excess moisture - unroll at once and shape garment according to original measurements, leaving it on turkish towel. Let it dry slowly, not forgetting to stretch it frequently into its natural shape, according to measurements. While garment is still damp, block according to directions.
WEAVING STOCKINETTE STITCH:
Thread a tapestry needle and bring pieces to be joined close together. Draw up yarn in first st on upper piece, inserting needle from wrong side; insert needle from right side in first st on lower piece and bring up through next st from wrong side - draw up yarn; * insert needle from right side in same st as before on upper piece and bring up through next st from wrong side - draw up yarn; insert needle from right side in same st as before on lower piece and bring up through next st - draw up yarn; repeat from * until all sts are joined, and fasten yarn well before breaking off.
ABBREVIATIONS AND TERMS USED IN KNITTING AND CROCHETING:
ch = chain; sc = single crochet; hdc = half double crochet; dc = double crochet; tr = treble; inc. = increase; dec. = decrease; st = stitch; tog = together; yo = yarn over; in. = inch; ins. = inches; k = knit; p = purl; pat. = pattern
slip, k and pass = slip 1, k 1, pass the slipped st over the knitted st.
An asterisk (*) indicates that the instructions immediately following are to be repeated the given number of times, in addition to the original. Thus "repeat from * 3 times" means to make 4 times in all.
The ** and † are used in the same way.
Even means that a row is to be worked without either increase or decrease.
Work means to continue in the stitch which has been described.
Crochet Patterns
First row (right side)—Skip 1 st from hook, draw up a loop in each of the next 5 sts, yo and through all 6 loops, ch 1 (a star), * draw up a loop under ch 1 (eye of star) just made, draw up a loop in back thread of last loop of star, a loop in same st as last loop of same star, a loop in each of the next 2 sts, yo and through all 6 loops, ch 1 *; repeat between *’s 5 times (7 stars), 1 hdc in same st as last loop, for even edge. (More)
Left Mitten—Palm and Thumb—Ch 24.
First row (wrong side)—1 sc in 2nd st from hook and in each st to end (23 sc).
2nd row—Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st (inc. for top edge), 1 sc in each st to end.
3rd row—Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in each st. Repeat last 2 rows once. (More)
First row (right side)—Slip first st from hook, draw up a loop in each of next 4 sts, yo and through all 5 loops on hook, ch 1 (1 full star st), * draw up 1 loop in ch 1 (eye of star just made), 1 loop in back thread of last loop of same star, 1 loop in each of next 2 sts, yo and through all 5 loops, ch 1 *; repeat between *’s to end (111 stars). (More)
First row of raglan (wrong side)—With color, 1 sc in first dc, ch 2, 1 sc in space between 3rd and 4th dc, * ch 2, 1 sc in space between 3rd and 4th dc from last sc *; repeat between *’s once, ch 2, 1 sc in same space as last sc (inc. for first raglan seam); repeat between *’s 3 times (sleeve), ch 2, 1 sc in same space as last sc (inc. for 2nd raglan seam); repeat between *’s 8 times (back) inc. as before (3rd raglan seam); repeat between *’s 3 times (sleeve), inc. as before (4th raglan seam); repeat between *’s 3 times, end last sc in top of turning ch. Fasten off, turn. (More)
First pattern row—right side—1 sc and 1 dc in 2nd st from hook, * skip 1 st, 1 sc and 1 dc in next st; repeat from * to end; 36 (39) pats.
2nd row—Ch 1, turn, * skip dc, 1 sc and 1 dc in sc; repeat fro * to end. Repeat 2nd row for pattern. Work even until 50 (56) rows; about 9 (10) ins. from beginning. (More)
Ch 187 sts, 1 sc in 2nd st from hook, * ch 3, 4 tr in same st as sc; skip 4 sts on ch, 1 sc in next st; repeat from * to end (37 shells).
2nd row—Ch 4, turn; 4 tr in first sc, skip 4 tr of next shell, 1 sc under ch 3 of shell, * ch 3; 4 tr under same ch 3 as sc, 1 sc under next ch 3; repeat from * to end. Repeat 2nd row until 31 ins. from beginning, do not break yarn. Working on side edge, ch 3, 4 tr under ch 4 of end shell... (More)
Knitting Patterns
With size 1 needles, cast on 111 sts.
First row (wrong side)—P 1, * k 1, p 1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row—K 1, * p 1, k 1; repeat from * to end. Repeat these 2 rows 6 times more. Work stockinette st (p 1 row, k 1 row) for 6 rows. Change to size 3 needles. (More)
Cast on 60 (48) sts. Work k 2, p 2 ribbing for 4 rows.
Beading—right side--* K 2, yo, p 2 tog; repeat from * to end. Work 7 (5) more rows ribbing. Change to garter st—k every row—(Knitting Worsted—inc, 1 st each side on first row; 50 sts). K 4 ½ ins. decreasing 1 st each side on last row for Casa-Laine only. (More)
5 ridges (10 rows) = 1 inch
Cast on 112 (96) sts. Work ribbing of k 1, p 1 for 6 rows.
Beading--* K 1, p 1, yo, k 2 tog; repeat from * to end. Work 6 more rows ribbing as before; 112 (96) sts. (More)
Cuff—Cast on 40 sts on 3 needles (12-12-16). Join, work k 2, p 2 ribbing for 1 ½ ins. Work 1 more round of ribbing. Increasing 1 st in center of every k rib, by picking up and knitting the loop between the 2 k sts (50 sts).
Pattern—First round--* Yo, slip 1 st as to k, k 2 tog, pass slip st over the 2 tog, yo, p 2; repeat from * to end. (More)
Instructions are written for smaller size, changes for larger size are in parentheses.
Cuff—Cast on 36 sts, join, work k 1, p 1 ribbing for 20 rounds.
Leg—K plain until 3 ½ (4 ½) ins. from beginning, or desired length. (More)
Cast on 34 sts.
First row (wrong side)—K 22.
2nd row—Turn, k 10.
3rd row—Turn, k 10. Continue to work garter st (k every row) back and forth on these 10 sts for instep, until there are 14 ridges (29 rows), end on wrong side. Break yarn. (More)
Cast on 40 sts for top. Work k 2, p 2 ribbing for 1 ½ ins.
Short rows—First row—K 26.
2nd row—Turn, slip 1 st, k 12.
3rd row—Turn, slip 1 st, k 13. (More)
Left Half—Cast on 22 sts for back of slipper.
First row (right side)—K 2, * p 2, k 2; repeat from * to end.
2nd row—P 2, * k 2, p 2; repeat from * to end.
3rd row—Same as 2nd row. (More)
Cuff—Cast on 44 sts, on 3 needles (14-14-16). Join, work k 1, p 1 ribbing for 24 rounds.
Dec. round—K 2 sts tog 22 times (22 sts). Work 4 rounds ribbing.
Inc. round—K 1 round increasing 1 st in each of the first 2 sts, then in every 2nd st 10 times (34 sts). (More)
Cast on 48 sts (16-16-16). Join. Work k 2, p 2 ribbing for 2 ¼ ins. for cuff.
Wrist dec. round--* K 2 tog, p 2 tog; repeat from * around (24 sts). Work k 1, p 1 ribbing for 6 rounds.
Inc. round--* K 1, inc. 1 st in next st; repeat from * around (36 sts). K around plain for 2 ¼ ins. (More)
Pattern Stitch—Multiple of 12 plus 6.
First and all odd rows—Purl.
2nd row—(right side)--* K 1, p 1; repeat from * to end.
4th row--* P 1, k 1; repeat from * to end. (More)
Measurements—Chest 21 ins. Length from lower edge to back of neck 11 ½ ins. Width of sleeve 7 ½ ins.
Back And Fronts—Cast on 136 sts for lower edge.
First row—(wrong side)—P 6, k 3, * p 1, k 2 *; repeat between *’s to within 7 sts of end, k 1, p 6.
2nd row—K 6, p 3, * k 1, p 2 *; repeat between *’s to within 7 sts of end, p 1, k 6. (More)
Measurements—Chest 21 ins. Length from lower edge to back of neck 11 ½ ins. Width of sleeve 7 ½ ins.
Back And Fronts—Cast on 136 sts for lower edge.
First row—(wrong side)—P 6, k 3, * p 1, k 2 *; repeat between *’s to within 7 sts of end, k 1, p 6. (More)
Back—Cast on 72 sts. Work k 1, p 1 ribbing for 1 ½ ins. Work garter st (k every row) for 4 ½ ins. Cast on 40 sts at beginning of next 2 rows for sleeves; 152 sts. Work 3 ¼ ins.
Next row—K 62 sts and slip on holder for sleeve and right front; bind off next 28 sts for back of neck; work to end. (More)
Stockinette Stripe—K 1 row, p 1 row for 10 rows.
Pattern Stripe—First Row—K 1, * yo, k 2 tog; repeat from *, end k 1. Repeat this row 5 times. Repeat from ** twice. K 1 row, p 1 row. Continue stockinette st stripe, decreasing 1 st each side every k row 4 times; p 1 row (44 sts). Break yarn, slip sts to holder. (More)
First row (right side)—K 7, * p 1, k 7; repeat from * to end.
2nd row—P 7, * k 1, p 7; repeat from * to end.
3rd row—P 1, k 5, p 1, * k 1, p 1, k 5, p 1; repeat from * to end.
4th row—K 1, p 5, k 1, * p 1, k 1, p 5, k 1; repeat from to end. (More)
Measurements—Chest 19 ½ ins. Length from lower edge to shoulder 9 ½ ins. Sleeves—Width 6 ½ ins.
Back—With size 0 needles, cast on 78 sts. Work k 1, p 1 ribbing for 1 in. Change to size 2 needles. Work stockinette st (p 1 row, k 1 row) for 5 ¾ ins., desired length to underarm. (More)
Measurements—Chest 23 ½ (24 ½) ins., including 3 ins. overlap. Length from lower edge to back of neck 10 ¾ ins. Sleeves—Width 7 ½ (8 ¼) ins.
Cast on 152 (160) sts for lower edge of back and fronts.
Pattern St—First and 2nd rows--* K 2, p 2; repeat from * to end. (More)
Measurements—Chest 22 ins. Length from lower edge to back of neck 16 ins. Width of back at shoulders 8 ins. Sleeves—Width at underarm 8 ins.
Back—With size 2 needles, cast on 89 sts.
Pattern—Work stockinette st (p 1 row, k 1 row) for 4 rows. Begin first group of motifs. (More)
Back—With size 1 needles, cast on 76 (80) sts. Work k 1, p 1 ribbing for 12 rows. With size 2 needles, work stockinette st, p 1 row, k 1 row, for 8 ½ (9 ½) ins. Slip on holder. Break yarn.
Right Front—With size 1 needles, cast on 50 (52) sts. Work ribbing for 5 rows. (More)
Ribbing-First row—P 1, * k 1, p 1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row—K 1, * p 1, k 1; repeat from * to end. Repeat these 2 rows for 1 ½ in., end with 2nd row. Change to size 3 needles.
Pattern—First row (wrong side)—K 1, * p 2, k 2; repeat from * to end. (More)
Weave these sts to right shoulder sts of back. Join yarn at neck edge of left side. Finish to correspond to right side.
Front Neck Ribbing--With small needles, pick up and k 13 sts on left side of neck edge, k front neck sts; pick up and k 13 sts on right side. Work k 1, p 1 ribbing for 3/4 in. (More)
Back—With main color (A), cast on 80 (84) sts. Work k 2, p 2 ribbing for 1 ½ ins. Work stockinette st, k 1 row, p 1 row, for 5 ¼ (6) ins. or desired length to ribbing.
Armholes—Bind off 3 sts at beginning of next 2 rows for underarm; 74 (78) sts. Work even until 1 ¾ (2) ins. above underarm, end with p row.
Yoke—Join contrasting color (b). (More)
Back—Beginning at crotch, with size 2 needles and color, cast on 24 sts. Work stockinette st (p 1 row, k 1 row), casting on 2 sts at end of each of 20 rows; then 4 sts at end of each of 6 rows (88 sts). Work even until 8 ½ ins. down center, or desired length to waistband. Drop color, do not break. Change to size 1 needles. With White work k 1, p 1 ribbing, working every 7th and 8th st tog. 10 times, finish row (78 sts). Continue ribbing, working 1 more row white, then 2 rows color, 2 rows white alternately until there are 15 rows, end with 1 row color. (More)
K 1, p 6, k 1, p 24, k 1, p 6, k 1, p 14 (for front border and hem).
2nd row—K 14, p 1, k 6, p 1, k 24, p 1, k 6, p 1, k to end. Repeat these 2 rows twice. Repeat first row again.
8th (Cable twist) row—K 14, * p 1, slip next 3 sts to crochet hook, hold at back of work, k next 3 sts, k 3 sts from hook, p 1 *, k 24; repeat between *’s once, k to end. (More)
Measurements—Width of back at underarm 14 ins.—of each front at underarm including overlap 9 ins. Length from lower edge to back of neck 30 ins. Sleeves--Width 11 ins.
Back—Cast on 96 sts.
First row--* K 2, p 2; repeat from * to end.
2nd row—Same as first row. (More)
Pattern—First row (wrong side)—K 2, * p 2, k 2; repeat from * to end.
2nd row—P 2, * k 2, p 2; repeat from * to end.
3rd row—Purl.
4th row—Knit. Repeat these 4 rows for pattern. (More)
Pocket Linings—With size 5 needles, cast on 21 sts.
First row—K 1, * p 1, k 1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row—P 1, * k 1, p 1; repeat from * to end. Work even until 2 ¼ (2 ½) ins. from beginning, end with 2nd row. Slip to holder; make 2. (More)
Measurements--Chest 27 (29) ins. Width of each front at underarm 9 1/2 (10) ins., including 5 1/2 (6) ins. overlap. Sleeves--Width 10 1/4 (11) ins.
Back--Cast on 125 (132) sts.
First row--P 38 (40), k 1, p 2, k 1, p 41 (44), k 1, p 2, k 1, p 38 (40). (More)
Back—With blue and size 1 needles, cast on 84 sts. Work k 2, p 2 ribbing for 1 ½ ins. Change to size 2 needles. Join white, begin stripes. Work stockinette st—k 1 row, p 1 row—working 2 rows each of white, yellow, white and blue, carrying yarn not in use loosely along edge. Repeat these 8 rows for stripes. Work even until 4 ¾ (5 ½) ins. above ribbing, end with yellow stripe. (More)
Back—With size 0 needles and color, cast on 94 (98) sts. Work ribbing of k 1, p 1 for 4 rows. Make 3 buttonholes as follows: Work first 24 sts of next row, turn; work ribbing on these 24 sts for 4 more rows, break off; * join yarn, work next 23 (25) sts of last long row in ribbing for 5 rows, break off; repeat from * twice working 24 sts on last repeat. (More)
Back—With size 2 needles, cast on 64 (68) sts. Work k 2, p 2 ribbing for 1 ½ ins. With size 3 needles, work stockinette st, k 1 row, p 1 row, for 5 ¼ (6) ins., or desired length to underarm.
Armholes—Bind off 3 sts at beginning of next 2 rows for underarm; 58 (62) sts. Work even until 3 ¼ (3 ½) ins. above underarm, end with p row. (More)
Little Miss Jump Up Toddler Outfit
Measurements—Chest 23 ½ ins. Width of back and front at underarm 11 ¾ ins. (smocked). Width of skirt at lower edge 39 ½ ins. around. Waistline 20 ins. (smocked). Length of skirt 10 ins. Length from lower edge to shoulder 18 ins.
Back Half—Cast on 138 sts for lower edge of skirt. Work stockinette st (p 1 row, k 1 row) for 13 rows. (More)
Measurements—Chest 22 ½ ins. Width around lower edge 44 ½ ins. Length from lower edge to back of neck 15 ½ ins.
Back—Skirt—Cast on 178 sts. K 5 rows.
6th row—(wrong side)—K 1, * p 3 tog; k 1, p 1, k 1—all in front thread of next st; repeat from *, end k 1. P 1 row. (More)
Left Half Of Pants—With size 2 needles and Navy, cast on 80 (92) sts for lower edge. Work stockinette st—k 1 row, p 1 row—for 5 rows.
Next row—wrong side—K, forming a ridge on right side for turning hem. Change to size 3 needles. K 1 row, p 1 row, k 1 row, p 1 row. Begin short rows. (More)
Back—Work same as back of No. 3166, until armhole shaping is completed, end with p row, decreasing 1 st in center of last row (67 sts).
Yoke—First row (right side)--* P 2, slip 1 st as to k, k 2, pass slipped st over the 2 k sts; repeat from *, end p 2.
2nd row--* K 2, p 1, wrap yarn around needle, p 1; repeat from *, end k 2 (67 sts). (More)
Measurements—Width of back at underarm 12 ½ ins.—of each front 10 ins., including 5 ins. overlap. Finished length from lower edge to back of neck 17 ins. Sleeves—Width 10 ins.
Entire coat is worked on size 5 needles.
Sleeves—Cast on 42 sts. Work ribbing of k 1, p 1 for 2 ½ ins. Inc. 1 st each side in last row (44 sts). Change to stockinette st (k 1 row, p 1 row). Inc. 1 st each side every 1 in. 5 times (54 sts). Work even until 6 ins. above ribbing, end on right side. Bind off 1 st at beginning of next row (53 sts). Slip to holder. (More)
Measurements—Width of back at underarm 12 ½ (13) ins.—of each front at underarm 8 (8 ¼) ins., including lap. Length from lower edge to back of neck 17 (18 ½) ins. Sleeves—Width 10 (10 ½) ins.
Back—With size 4 needles, cast on 76 (80) sts.
First row—right side—P 1, * k 2, p 2; repeat from *, end k 2, p 1. (More)
With double pointed needles, cast on 32 sts. P 1 row.
First row of raglan—Inc. 1 st in each of the first 2 sts, k 1, mark last st for first seam st; inc. 1 st in next st, k 2, inc. 1 st for sleeve, k 1, mark this st for 2nd seam st; inc. 1 st, k 14, inc. 1 st for back, k 1, mark this for 3rd seam st; inc. 1 st for back, k 1, mark this for 3rd seam st; inc. 1 st, k 2, inc. 1 st for sleeve, k 1, mark this for 4th seam st; inc. 1 st in each of last 2 sts; 10 increases—42 sts. (More)
Weave sts on needle t same number of shoulder sts at right side of back.
Left Front—Work to correspond to right front, omitting buttonholes and shaping armholes and neck at opposite sides.
Neck Ribbing—Starting at right front edge, with small needles, slip front neck sts from holder, join yarn, pick up and k 6 sts on right side neck edge, k the back neck sts, pick up and k 6 sts on left side neck, k front neck sts from holder. (More)
Back—Cast on 23 (25) sts for crotch. P 1 row, cast on 4 sts.
2nd row—K 4, slip, k and pass, k 19 (21), k 2 tog, cast on 4 sts.
3rd row—P 29 (31), cast on 4 sts; 33 (35) sts.
4th row—K 8, slip, k and pass, k 17 (19), k 2 tog, k 4, cast on 4 sts. (More)
Back—With size 3 needles and color A, cast on 79 (83) sts, drop A.
First row—right side—With B, k 3, * slip 1 st as to p, k 3; repeat from * to end.
2nd row—K 3, * p 1, k 3; repeat from * to end, drop B.
3rd row—With A, k 1, * slip 1, k 3; repeat from *, end slip 1, k 1. (More)
With Silverflake, cast on 141 sts.
First row—With Germantown, purl.
2nd row—Knit.
3rd row—With Silverflake, purl.
4th row--* K 2 tog, yo; repeat from *, end k 1. Repeat first, 2nd and 3rd row once. (More)
Cast on 197 sts.
First row—(right side)—K 1, * p 1, k 1; repeat from * to end. Repeat first row 7 times for seed st border.
9th row—K 1, p 1, k 1, p 1, k 1, * k 27, k 1, p 1, k 1, p 1, k 1 (seed st stripe); repeat from * to end. (More)
With white, cast on 141 sts.
Border—First row is right side. P 1 row, k 1 row, p 1 row, increasing 1 st in first and last st on each row.
4th row—K even. P 1 row, k 1 row, p 1 row, decreasing 1 st each side on each row.
8th row—K even. (More)
Fleisher Fashions
Volume 75
Fleisher Yarns
Original Copyright 1946
Baby talk about knitting! "Mommie says that whenever she wants to knit for me she finds just the right thing in Fleisher's Baby Book.
"She says the instructions are so easy to follow that even I'll be able to knit when I grow a little older. I heard her tell Sis that what she likes specially about Fleisher's books is that the instructions are so accurate...it's almost impossible to go wrong.
"She talks about checking with the gauge(whatever that is) so that whatever she makes is just the right size. I heard her say too that inches mean more than years. I guess by that she means that you can't tell a baby's size by her age - you just have to measure...that is why she is always measuring us and checking with her Fleisher book."